Liebman’s Deli Arrives in Ardsley

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Liebman's Yuval Dekel (photo care of Liebmn's Deli)

April 9, 2024

By Shana Liebman–

Mazel tov to Liebman’s, the beloved, Bronx-born Jewish deli that recently opened a second spot in Ardsley. We are so happy to have you (and your half-sour pickles) here.

Joe Liebman (no relation to the author) opened the first Liebman’s Deli in 1953. At the time, there were hundreds of Jewish delis in the Bronx. Liebman’s outlasted all of them. In 1980, an Israeli named Joseph Dekel bought Liebman’s, determined to preserve the original recipes. The Riverdale restaurant has since become an institution, a relic of another time.

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Dekel’s son Yuval (who lives in Westchester), along with Westchester resident Craig Weitz, opened Liebman’s second location on March 18 at the edge of Ardsley’s awkward cul-de-sac (ie Addyman Square), bringing some much-needed chutzpah to the area. (Liebman’s took over and remodeled two vacant businesses: a deli and a pizza place.)

Everything about the place feels buoyantly retro and authentic. The walls are covered with ironic art like blunt drawings of Hasidic men kicking a soccer ball and Warhol-like prints of horseradish jars. In the sleek dining side of the narrow, two-part restaurant, Formica four-tops are lined up on a black and white tiled floor, and everyone is drinking Dr. Brown sodas. On the entry/take-out side, the glass display case houses tubs of matzoh balls in waiting, and large metal pans of chopped liver, gefilte fish, herring, tuna salad, and rugelach that you can visually devour while waiting for an order or a table.

The enormous menu rivals a suburban diner’s — minus the pancakes and Salisbury steak. Also, only a real Jewish deli would offer tuna salad every which way—and meatloaf as an appetizer. The famous pastrami sandwich is the real deal — with fresh, juicy meat packed to the rim of (non-toasted) rye, with a side of communal mustard. (Sandwiches also come packed with turkey, corned beef, tuna, egg salad, or chicken salad.) The matzoh balls are fluffy and light, if a bit under-seasoned, and come in a flavorful, rich chicken broth with short noodles and soft carrots. You can also pair half of a sandwich with a cup of soup.

More adventurous eaters (and old-school Jewish diners) will appreciate the beef tongue, chopped liver platter, fried kreplach, and kishka. The menu also features Middle Eastern dishes like falafel and hummus with pita, and an Israeli salad. And there’s plenty for kids, including a “$5 Frankfurter” steal. (Apologies to my mother-in-law, whom I dramatically informed that the word “frankfurter” no longer exists.)

The sprawling, international menu doesn’t stop there. There’s fried chicken, burgers, knockwurst, goulash, and a Roumanian steak. Plus, beloved breakfast dishes like eggs with salami, and bagels with smoked salmon. Traditional culinary rules are consistent: Cream cheese is parve, and there’s no pork in the Kosher Cobb.

Although the food is top-notch, the prices are steep: $28 for a chef salad and $18 for smoked whitefish on a bagel. The dining-in process is still a bit clunky —a recent order of the Kosher Cobb seemed to throw the kitchen for a loop. Also, the waiters, while industrious, seem to be learning the ropes. (Although this might just be the usual sweaty, erratic, apologetic service that comes with a good Jewish deli.) In the meantime, stop kvetching! You’ve got free coleslaw and sour pickles to nosh.

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