Local Farms, Chefs Join Forces to Promote Fresh Food
It seems logical, right? The Hudson Valley is a cornucopia of produce - both tree and field crops, grapes and berries, ornamental flowers for cutting. Its fields nurture both beef and dairy cattle, sheep for cheese and yogurt as well as wool, turkeys, goats, chickens and other poultry, as well as alpacas, llamas and yes – even honeybees. Our farms supply us with fresh, wholesome food that doesn’t have to be trucked or flown into the region from hundreds or thousands of miles away. And likewise, the Valley is home to many diverse and delicious dining establishments, both elegant and humble.
Westchester Land Trust (WLT), along with Slow Food Westchester and Mypersonalfarmers.com, recently hosted an event designed to bring these two groups – local farmers and local restaurant professionals--- together in what was called a “speed meeting” graciously hosted by Muscoot Farm. This idea was an outgrowth of WLT’s initiative “Local Farm/Local Chef”.
Eighteen farmers and 22 chefs and restaurateurs attended the event with the hopes of finding steady markets for local growers and steady supplies of high quality, sustainable food for local dining establishments.
David Starkey and Tommy Lasley were two local enthusiasts who were on hand. Starkey is the owner of two local restaurants – Tomatillo in Dobbs Ferry and Sweet Grass Grill in Tarrytown, while Lasley is the executive chef at Sweet Grass.
Starkey, who had no formal training outside of cooking classes, created the recipes and the menu for Tomatillo. He grew up surrounded by great cooks, his mother primarily, his grandfather, and his uncle who happened to be a big fan of Central American food. In describing our region, he said, “When I moved up here into Westchester I was blown away by the beauty of the Hudson Valley and all that it had to offer”.
Lasley trained at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in Hyde Park, right in the middle of the Hudson Valley’s bounty. Strangely, though, the value of local sources of food was not stressed at CIA – it was during his externship at Stone Barns in Pocantico Hills that he found what he always knew to be true. Local food – food that arrives “in a pick-up truck rather than a semi-trailer” – is beneficial for the farmer, the restaurant and the customer. A win-win-win situation.
Since this arrangement seemed so perfect – a “no brainer” if you will, both men were asked if they sensed any drawbacks to buying locally raised food. They cited issues of consistency and timing, as well as delivery factors that might complicate the arrangement. Also, customers’ expectations might not match up with the reality of the growing seasons.
“On the first warm day in May, customers come in wanting a salad of locally grown tomatoes, while in reality, tomatoes begin to ripen in late August in the Hudson Valley,” Starkey said.
But they both agreed that they were willing to give the arrangement a try.
During a later visit with Lasley to Amba Organic, a one acre farm tucked in to an oasis in Bedford Hills, proprietor Liz Taggart explained how they mix flowers, such as salvia, yarrow and marigolds, with the vegetables to attract beneficial insects. They grow everything from their own seed and fertilize the crops with an assortment of different home brewed manure “teas”. The farm boasts berries and herbs, both culinary and for teas, fruit trees and 15 different lettuces and greens, heirloom tomatoes and much more. Liz told us that everything was planted due east and harvested with the warmth of the morning sun.
Taggart told Lasley she could begin providing produce the following week and that she would make the delivery herself – avoiding the potential snag that could have complicated the arrangement.
“It’s like being told you won a prize, but you won’t know what it is until next week,” he said. When asked him if it would be difficult to produce a menu when without knowing the ingredients, he replied, “When everything is grown with so much love, it will be a pleasure”.
The delivery arrived just before noon the following Tuesday. It consisted of a mélange of greens and lettuces, peas, beets, assorted herbs and strawberries.What emerged from these seemingly unrelated ingredients were five cohesive main courses and two desserts, each incorporating Amba Farms freshest and best. The wait staff, in introducing the special menu, informed diners that “When you woke up this morning, this food was still in the ground”.
Was the new menu a success? Lasley estimated about 20 percent of that evening’s diners ordered from the Amba Farms entrees, while a whopping 50 percent ordered from the dessert selection – Ah, those strawberries!
Lasley said the kitchen and waitstaff were very enthusiastic about the farm menu. This due in large part to his having assembled a team that loves food but join him in getting excited about the farm to table movement.
Will these special dinners continue? Lasley is planning another menu and has set up weekly deliveries from multiple farms to ensure he can continue such dinners. He will be purchasing a black board where he can showcase to his guests each day’s harvest.
“I can’t wait to see what comes in each day and pass such beautiful products on to our guests,” he said.
For further information on Slow Food Westchester’s local events and news, visit www.slowfoodwestchester.org.