by Linda Viertel
“Family-friendly, tasty, healthy Asian comfort food” might seem like too many descriptives for a local Korean-based culinary experience, but GoSu fits the bill on all counts. Tony Kim, GoSu’s owner, spent two years looking for just the right spot in our rivertowns, hoping to realize his dream of opening his own eatery after 15 years in the restaurant business. With a sister and her four children in Irvington and parents in White Plains, he knew where he wanted to be and the type of casual place he wished to create.
“I wanted to make an every day restaurant, moderately priced and family-oriented. Kids are always welcome. It’s fun to watch kids enjoy noodles. And, adults do too!” Kim combined the Korean term “Gogi” for meat, and “Gook Su” for noodles, which he put together to form “GoSu,”aptly named, since marinated meats and noodle dishes are his specialty. But, he also makes sure to include seasonal vegetables, a staple of the Korean diet, on his menu, which balances out proteins and rice.
Kim has his own “take” on the traditional Korean dish Bibimbap, which he calls Bibimbop Sizzle, seasoned vegetables over rice, with a choice of bulgogi — Kim’s sliced rib-eye marinated in a soy, sugar, garlic and sesame oil mixture or spicy pork, served with house spicy dressing. Other “Sizzle Bops” include Galbi – marinated sliced short rib, chicken or salmon teriyaki, or his signature tofu steak sizzle – seared, sliced organic tofu with a ginger teriyaki glaze.
At GoSu, Asian fusion means customers can order a selection of Japanese noodles – ramen, udon or soba, and be assured that the noodles are not only fresh but also cooked to chewy perfection. The bowls are chock full of greens, corn, meats or chicken and topped with an egg – depending upon which Japanese noodle dish you order. “Fusion” also means the opportunity to sample one of Kim’s most popular dishes, the Bulgogi Taco. Kim’s marinated, sliced rib-eye, is slathered with his pico de gallo sauce, a mixture of fresh chopped cilantro, serrano peppers, onions, tomato, salt and lime juice. It’s a Korean/Mexican delight!
Kids love Kim’s Tatsutage, Japanese bite-sized fried chicken which comes with a mildly spicy yuzu mayonnaise dipping sauce, which is also a perfect small plate first course for the table. Vegetable and shrimp tempura dishes at GoSu are light, crunchy, full of distinct tastes, and beautiful to witness as they arrive at the table, piled high with a variety of delicately fried edibles.
For diners who enjoy a spicy kick, try the Wasabi Shumai, wasabi infused pork dumplings in a tempura broth. Complement these spicier shumai with the milder shrimp dumplings, in a delicate ginger soy vinaigrette. Miso soup or salad accompany the Sizzle Bops and may be ordered separately. Aside from the house salad, diners can try the kani salad – Japanese crabstick and cucumber in a mayonnaise-based dressing, or the seaweed salad – marinated mixed seaweeds in a sesame dressing.
Drinks include your choice of beer, wine, sake, soda or soju – Korea’s version of sake and the country’s most popular alcoholic beverage.
Extensive renovations of restaurant Buon Gusto’s former site have given GoSu an airy, light and open feel – an ideal ambiance for Kim’s cooking style. Expanded windows let in exterior light, further enhanced by interior white walls, white Corian table tops, and a mirrored bar. Comfortable chairs and soft ottomans, which serve as storage units for backpacks, purses, coats – if needed, add to GoSu’s comfortable atmosphere.
At GoSu, diners will find no knives on the tables, since meats and vegetables are in bite-sized pieces. Only a fork and soup spoon are necessary, plus an occasional use of hands for Kim’s generous bulgogi taco. This makes dining even easier for customers – families, friends and couples, who are already enjoying GoSu’s relaxing vibe in great numbers.
If You Go
50 South Buckhout St.,Irvington
(Call or order online for pick-up.)